Bra Fit Guide

It's been estimated that 80% of women are wearing the wrong bra size. A lot of women are clinging to the idea of a specific size, forgetting that only the fit is what matters. However, all size is relative since it can vary greatly from brand to brand and from style to style. To know whether a bra fits or not, the following points should be considered:

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF

A properly sized bra is crucial for optimal fit and comfort. Here’s how to measure yourself and find the right size.

UNDERBUST CIRCUMFERENCE
Place the tape measure around your body beneath the breast and breathe normally. The underbust measurement will tell you your band size.

OVERBUST CIRCUMFERENCE
Measure your circumference at the fullest part of your bust with your arms down and relaxed. The overbust measurement will tell you your cup size.

Use the underbust and overbust measurements to determine your bra size.

THE PERFECT FIT

In order to tell whether a bra suits you, bra expert Frauke Nagel has some useful tips. “Take your time and keep the bra you are trying on for a few minutes. Move your arms, sit down, and stand up again. Like shoes, bras need to be broken in and will become more comfortable over time. But if it pinches or tugs right away, you should try a different size or style.”

The back section should sit in a straight line along the ribcage. If the back rides up, try a smaller underbust size. If you don’t want to change the cup size, go up a letter. For example, if the band is too big in a 36B, try a 34C or 32D to reduce the band size but keep the same cup size.

Is the neckline lying flat on the chest? If the neckline cuts into your breast then it is possible that the cup is too small. If it wrinkles, the cup is probably too big.

Is the bridge in the front between the cups lying flat on your sternum? If not, the cup is probably too small or the bra model is not right for you. 

The underwire should frame the breast and lie flat on the chest. It should never pinch the breast tissue.

In the end it is important to examine the straps. They should be tight without cutting into the shoulder. If the straps leave pressure marks they should be elongated. Keep in mind: the support of the cups comes from the under band and the back part, not from the straps!  

THE RIGHT WAY TO PUT ON A BRA

Putting on a bra seems rather intuitive. However, small things can greatly influence the comfort of a bra. The right way to put on a bra is especially important when assessing the fit of a bra. Therefore you should consider the following steps when putting on a bra at home or trying it on in a shop:

Place your arms through the straps and place the underbust band or the underwire beneath your breasts. 

Bow slightly forward, let your breasts fall into the cup and close the back hooks. Another option is to put your bra around your waist, close it in the front and turn it carefully around your body until the cups are in the front. Then slide it upwards beneath the breasts. From the start the cups should point out, so that they do not have to be untucked or pulled back up.

If you put on the bra for the first time, use the set of hooks furthest out on the band. Later on, provided that it is comfortable, you can close the bra with the middle hooks. Make sure that the under band runs horizontal and does not slide up in the back. 

Position the straps on the shoulders. If the bra is new it is possible that the straps will be too short. Therefore it is best if you lengthen them before putting the bra on for the first time.

Place a hand between cup and breast and gently push the breast from the side to the front into the cup. The breast tissue should completely lie in the cup and the underwire should frame the breasts. When wearing wireless bras the under band should sit tightly beneath the breasts without sliding up.

Lastly, it is important to examine the straps. They should be snug without cutting into the shoulder. If the straps leave pressure marks they should be lengthened. Keep in mind: the support of the cups comes from the underbust band and the back band, not from the straps!

Helpful tips from our Bra Developer Frauke Nagel 

  • When trying on bras, take your time and keep the bra on for a couple of minutes instead of taking it off immediately. Move your arms, sit down and stand up again. It is like walking around with new shoes. Like shoes, bras become more comfortable with time. However, if the bra is uncomfortable, tight or pinches, you should try on a different size or a different bra model.

  • Not every bra will fit each woman nor does every style work on each body type. The most important fit features for the bra are the materials and shape of the underwire.

  • In order to find the best bra fit, you might have to try on many styles.

  • Since every woman is built differently there is no formula that applies to everyone. We recommend visiting a specialty shop or a bra fitter who can give you tips on what you need to be aware of. You can recognize a good specialist if he or she caters to your individual needs and does not persuade you to buy a specific bra.